Hillary's Ruminations a Roma

Italian Cinema Posting

2009-09-18T20:55:00.003+02:00

One of the blogs I follow, Becoming Italian Word by Word, has an excellent post today about Italian cinema, including translations of some classic movie lines into idiomatic Italian. The post also includes the trailer to Ladri di Biciclette (Bicycle Thieves), one of the films we studied during our time in Roma.

Complexity

2009-01-14T22:02:00.001+01:00

One of the Italian ex-pat blogs that I follow, Cross Cultural Moments, has an excellent entry today about complexity and systems science. She's talking about the ways that dynamism functions, particularly, and how being at the edge of a dynamic system (the edge of chaos) works in cross-cultural experiences. Like Roman traffic. Dynamic, complex systems that seem chaotic but are all the stronger for their complexity.

My spouse's masters degree is in Systems Science, so this is an area that I'm fairly familiar with, but I think an ecological, systems science perspective on culture is an excellent move. Abbot does a particularly nice job making these connections explicit.

Letter-Writing

2009-01-14T21:57:00.003+01:00

Mary Anne Trasciatti has an article in the new edition of Rhetoric Society Quarterly about trans-atlantic letter-writing in Italian immigrant communities that's rather interesting. Here's the abstract:

"Alfonso Arbib-Costa's 1909 Manuale di Corrispondenza Commerciale, Familiare, e Amorose Italiana-Inglese offered letter-writing instruction to Italian immigrants hoping to succeed in American business and social circles. The book contained some theory, but was primarily a collection of model letters, or formulary. This article identifies the text as one of a distinct type of bilingual, bicultural letter-writing handbooks for immigrants that arose in the United States in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, situates it in the American parlor rhetoric tradition, and analyzes its theoretical content and models. Although formularies are often overlooked by scholars, they are rich texts that reveal important connections between rhetoric and culture. Formularies for immigrants are particularly interesting because they clearly demonstrate how attempts at social engineering may be embedded in rhetorical pedagogy. The study concludes with a call for additional research into this area of rhetorical history, which remains largely unknown."

Because so much of what we do in our Rome program is talking through travel-writing, letter-writing seems a natural corollary, and this article does a nice job of fleshing it out.

Transportation Strike as Protest

2008-10-19T21:29:00.003+02:00

Italy's major cities found themselves less mobile this week, as groups banded together to protest Berlusconi. Major news sources, such as UPI, report 300,000 Romans participated in the protest, not only stopping transportation but turning out in the streets and piazzas.

To be in Rome on such a day... What a dream for we rhetoricians interested in resistance and transformation!

Treviso

2008-10-15T20:54:00.009+02:00

I miss Italy, and I'm envious of those who are seeing it in all its autumnal beauty. The blogs I follow of expats living in Italy are full of beautiful autumn leaves right now. Lucky for us, State College is vividly in autumnal glory, as well. We are appreciating the crisp air and the turning leaves. One thing the East Coast absolutely has over the West Coast is fall. Since it's my favorite season, I am appreciating being here right now.

It helps that I get my fill of Italy pics online. A photoblog I follow has been featuring some gorgeous pieces from the photographer's trip to Italy (he's an Aussie). My favorite is a shot from Treviso, of the Treviso Canal. It is definitely on the to-visit-next-time list, just because of his pics from there. Bellisima! The full blog is seriocomic.com, and he (Mike Hudson) does a nice service in providing the Photoshopping (or adjustments to RAW images) he's done to each pic, as well. The RSS Feed is reliable and provides a nice photo at the top of my reading each day :)

Another Privacy Post

2008-07-15T22:32:00.001+02:00

Here's another great post about privacy. This blogger and the previous one I mentioned cite each other back and forth. This is a nice extension of how Italians regard the role of privacy, particularly in relationship to the government.

Pictures, En Masse

2008-07-11T20:26:00.008+02:00

As I begin getting all of my photographs uploaded so that I can order prints, build photo books, and print a few key pieces for the walls, I have been devoting all of our bandwidth to Shutterfly. I'm a big fan of their photo books, and they have some of the best quality prints, in color (We use a special photography service for Greg's black and white work, as b-n-w that is printed by a printer designed for color is almost always sub-par).

You can see the full collection of photos from my time in Italy, here. A number of the photos in album 2/4 are student-taken photos, and I'd be happy to identify credit. Generally, they are from Shane St. Esprit (at the Colosseum and the Forum) and Kelley Costello (at Pompeii), although a few owe their authorship to Josie Moore (about town, mostly) and Jared Penn (the Italian flag at the Stadio Olimpico). There are three photos taken by Jessica Sheffield in album 3/4, all of people with umbrellas at the Trevi Fountain. My profound thanks to these folks--they captured the everyday moments that were missing in my photos but were in my memories.

0/4 Rome Photos
1/4 Rome Photos
2/4 Rome Photos
3/4 Rome Photos
4/4 Rome Photos

Enjoy!

Even Berlusconi Might Protest Bush...

2008-07-11T19:55:00.002+02:00

Berlusconi is not the most popular fellow amongst the Italians I spoke with, but even he might protest the most recent treatment he's received from George W. Bush.

From one of the most conservative news sources to your ears: FOXNews relates the press kit that smears Berlusconi requires an apology. And, on the Blogora today, a bit about how Bush greeted Berlusconi in Spanish. Amigo/amiga, folks, is in Spanish. The Italian is amica or amico.

While we were in Italy, Bush visited the Pope and Berlusconi (in Naples at the time), and a protest was held in Rome. The carabinieri lined up at the end of the parade and along the route in front of storefronts such as Blockbuster. The protest was peopled as much by American expats as Italians, but the casual conversations I had with Italians indicated that neither Bush nor Berlusconi are the most popular folks at the moment...

Yet another reason to love Italy....Publicness

2008-07-11T19:33:00.002+02:00

One of my favorite Italy blogs, Cross Cultural Moments, had a great post today about privacy. The thread begins a few posts back, about students' examinations, but I think this bit that she appended to the end is truly fascinating for we rhetoricians:

"Interesting aside: the Italians say 'privacy' in English as there is no true translation of the concept as we know it in Italian. So the new 'privacy laws' are called 'le leggi sulla privacy'. Now try applying those, when your language doesn't even recognize the essence of the concept! In true Italian style the laws are very, very thorough, so exacting in their detail that NO ONE could EVER hope to actually adhere to them properly! I know of someone who has set up a consulting business to help offices adhere to the ever changing privacy laws."

What I love about this is that the concept of "private" is so foreign that there isn't even a word for it. Talk about publics theory! It also is a great case for why an ever-growing vocabulary is key for we teachers to advocate. Without the words, the concepts may not even exist (is it turtles all the way down?!?).

Home at Last

2008-06-30T15:56:00.002+02:00

I have finally arrived, safe and sound, in State College after three solid days of travel. Let me just say this: Rome can't hold a candle to the chaos and disorganization that is JFK International. We could read the signs and talk to people at JFK and it was STILL more confusing and disorienting than living in Rome.

Although I am fiercely missing Rome, it helps that it is pretty here this time of year. Everything is green, the boulevards are wide and open, and flowers are in bloom. My family is happy to see me, and it's a delight to be able to chat on the phone as long as I like :)

I'll be posting to this blog periodically over the next couple of weeks to wrap up some of the items I did not get posted prior to leaving Italy. You can also look forward to a photo link in the near future that will include all of my Italy photos online.

Headed Home

2008-06-25T13:33:00.004+02:00

We are headed home in the next few days. I do not anticipate returning to State College; I will miss Rome.

What I do look forward to is seeing my spouse and my pups. You can see them, here. Riley (aka Roo) is the black schnauzer, and Roscoe (aka Rox) is the salt-and-pepper one. I look forward to hearing their stories. Riley has had a haircut, I hear, so she probably looks a bit more like Rox now, what we refer to lovingly as alien-rat-dog hair, which is most practical for summertime. I have cuter pics, but these are the ones I brought with me--their faces being affectionate and asking for attention and love :)

Here are me and Greg, being sappy on our wedding day. Our anniversary happens very soon. I will be glad to be home to celebrate it together.

You can see two of this blog's themes (dogs and weddings) tying together with my path home (although these are all older photos in order to tie up those themes neatly ;). The other theme, the bus, does not work in as clearly, but we do both value public transport and urban living a lot. Perhaps that makes the final connection.

It has been grand. I will miss Rome very much, but I look forward to seeing my family and friends again.

Saturday is Wedding Day

2008-06-24T12:29:00.003+02:00

Saturdays are very, very popular for weddings here. The day we graduate students visited the Via Appia Antica, we saw three weddings. Unfortunately, my quick draw is not great for my camera, and I only obtained pics of people's backs as they walked to the wedding.

I also missed a couple, promenading down the middle of the street, in Florence, even though I chased after them. I had to give way to a truck and this couple in the foreground. It's hard to capture people walking!

Just this past weekend, I witnessed a couple getting engaged, at sunset, on the Pincio hill. As we rounded the corner, the scene was perfect—the sun setting behind the city, a clear view with just the two of them there, earnest and tuned-in body language. I thought, “I wonder if he’s going to propose…” and about two seconds later, he was down on one knee. Since I do not have a particularly well-developed Jedi mind trick, I’m going to assume they were on this path already. Mia was kind enough to lend me some pixels so I could get a shot of them just after. She said yes, we assume, given all the hugging and kissing.

As we head home, it is heartening to see couples just making a beginning commitment. In a year, it might be another Saturday wedding.

An Update on Marblework

2008-06-24T12:02:00.030+02:00

I have kept an eye on the marble flooring in each of the churches and buildings we visit. Below, I have included some photos of the more intricate work.

Santa Maria in Trastevere
(Thanks to Mark, for the camera loan!)

Santa Maria della Vittoria

The Vatican Museums

(notice the stars of David, which are from the Raphael Rooms, which is why the photo is blurry--one cannot take photos with flash in those rooms, even of the floors) Some of the rest of the museum's marble work can be seen below (this is not exhaustive--anyone looking for marble would do well to spend time in the museums!)

Ostia Antica

Notice the one with the swastikas! These symbols used have a long history, before the Nazis appropriated and ruined it.

Some Highlights of the Sights from this Week

2008-06-24T10:53:00.003+02:00

Here are a few highlights from the sights we saw last week:

The Vatican Museums

The Protestant Cemetery

The Aventine Hill

Some of the sights through the keyhole that our student Cole is peeping through in the show were captured well by Jessica Sheffield, here. The group of folks are my students from the program, who are linked to in my left sidebar.

Dogs at the Vatican Museums and Capitoline Museums

2008-06-24T10:37:00.018+02:00

Dogs are well represented in the museum collections at the Vatican Museums and Capitoline Musuems. Some of the highlights are re-presented below:

At The Capitoline Museums

At The Vatican Museums

Dog Park in Testaccio

2008-06-24T10:24:00.008+02:00

The dog park in our neighborhood, Testaccio, is more similar to what one might expect to find at a dog park in the States. It is a fenced in area with benches and space for the dogs to run and play. The owners sit on the benches, unleash the pups, and they play. The dogs view this as their space, and will bark at passersby. It appears relatively clean, whether it is maintained by the park or by those who frequent the park. The dogs seem to love this place—we passed someone taking his dog into the park while being pulled eagerly toward the dog park portion.

Dog Accessories, Groomers, and Walkers

2008-06-24T10:15:00.004+02:00

Accessories are just as common for pets in Italy as in the States. I have seen dogs with raincoats, Roma shirts, and flashy collars. Some are carried in frilly purses and carriers. I saw two dogs brought into a restaurant this way just this week. In Florence, I saw a window display advertising accessories, and most shops seem to have some, even if it is not their specialty. Here is the shop in Florence, at left and right.

These bits are not uncommon, but do draw attention. More than once, I have seen Romans commenting to one another or pointing or nodding toward dogs wearing raincoats or sweatshirts. It is accepted, but not quite so normal that it does not draw attention.

There are dog groomers, including one just around the corner from our apartment, with baths, tables, clippers, and technicians. They appear to be fairly well frequented, as I have seen dogs emerging from that shop every time it is open and I am by there. Even dogs with minimal grooming seem to go there for baths.

Finally, although most people appear to walk their own dogs in the mornings, I have seen dog walkers twice while here. Just yesterday morning, while waiting for my students to turn up to go to Testaccio Market, I watched a man park two dogs, disappear into a building, and re-emerge with three more. He set off with all five, and an Italian woman out with her toddler commented on the number of cani, pointing them out to her child. Most people walk one or two dogs at once, so this dog-walker appears to be more of an exception than the rule, as well.

Dogs and Medicine

2008-06-24T09:46:00.003+02:00

I have been hesitant to post about the role of veterinarians in

Italy

. Because blogs are so public and my Italian so limited, I do not want to mislead anyone. So the knowledge I have managed to glean about veterinary medicine in Rome is limited, at best. Anyone actually seeking veterinary care for their pets, livestock, or wildlife would do well to consult with a veterinarian (or two—just like doctors, it doesn’t hurt to get a second opinion sometimes) directly. There are some excellent reviews of the profession in academic journals, although you may need to go through a university library to obtain access to them, such as this one.

Most of the veterinarians around Rome (and I saw these in Firenze, as well) are labeled as ambulatorio veterinario. Here's one from our neighborhood in Testaccio:

I learned at the Protestant Cemetery (really, anyone who is not Catholic, not just Protestant Christains, are represented in this very, very beautiful community of the dead) that rabies is non-existent in Italy. However, fleas and ticks appear to continue to be an issue, as many of the trash bins along the Via Appia Antica are littered by Frontline packs:

Spaying and neutering is not particularly widespread, as anyone walking along the streets of Rome can easily observe. I did see signs at one of the veterinary clinics encouraging it, however.

I have focused primarily on dogs (two of the sites for organizations dealing with abandoned dogs include Associazione Volontari Canile di Porta Portese and Canile Muratella), but a number of organizations also actively promote rescue and sanctuary for our furry feline friends. Feral cats are provided sanctuaries through organizations such as The Friends of Roman Cats, I Gatti della Piramide, and Torre Argentina.

I believe strongly in investing in high-quality foods and preventive care for animals, so food seems as important as the veterinarians for medical concerns. Foods that are widely available are not that much different than what we see in the States—lots of mid-range foods such as Iams and Science Diet, and cheap foods like Purina, are fairly well distributed and promoted. Some of the high end foods (Evo, California Natural) are missing, in the shops I visited, but I suspect some of the other bags, with labels I did not take the time to peruse, might be all natural foods, based on the packaging and prices. Prices are generally fairly comparable to the States (although, of course, in euro).

Health is an important part of taking care of our beloved pets. It is worth visiting veterinarians for care; do go with plenty of research under your belt so that you can make informed decisions about the care for your animals.

Lost Dogs

2008-06-24T09:40:00.002+02:00

The enormous problem with abandoned dogs is widely publicized, including in advertisements on the bus each morning. Owners in

Italy

are required to micro-chip their pets to discourage abandonment. Many dogs are not abandoned but lost—and signs can be seen throughout the city. Usually, these include a photograph of the dog, a short story, contact information, and a plastic sheet cover to keep the paper dry. I have seen these on light posts, sides of buildings, in the entryway to pet shops and veterinarians’ offices, and, especially, near the dog parks in the Villa Borghese and the local dog park in Testaccio.

Here are two examples, one from the dog park in Testaccio (the pointer) and one from Via Appia Antica (the wire-haired dachshund):

Validating the Bus Tickets

2008-06-24T08:37:00.003+02:00

When we took the students out to Boys Town, we had to get single tickets for the students (most of the graduate students have monthly bus passes). Here is a short video that Jessica took of Mark and I working our way through validating almost thirty tickets! It captures the process of validation fairly thoroughly.

Bus Map, A Must Have

2008-06-17T18:28:00.003+02:00

If you find yourself in Rome, a bus map is a must-have. The system is very comprehensive, and the signs are useful for figuring out where the major stops are on a route. It can make it possible to figure out which direction the bus is headed, sometimes, as well (Piazza Venezia is a useful central point to know that you're in the city center). Here's a comprehensive map (the city center only on this map), from ATAC (the site is all in Italian, but with some basic words it can be navigated fairly simply).

It's raining today, so Mia and I took the 116 to the Villa Borghese and the 95 back from there to the Sede di Roma. We'll take the 95 or the 170 on our way home. We've been here just over five weeks, and we can get anywhere we need to in the city. Sometimes, we have to spend a few minutes with a bus map, but we have routes fairly down for most of the major areas of the city (e.g. H is for Trastevere, 64 goes to the Vatican, 117 goes to the Laterano, etc.). It is worth taking time to learn--it saves us a lot of time in getting around when it is rainy, we have heavy backpacks, someone forgets an umbrella, or anyone is not feeling well. I am a fan.

Need Art? We've Got It!

2008-06-17T17:26:00.004+02:00

It has been a grand week for art in our world, as we have been to a number of galleries (not all the same ones) as a group. Tomorrow, many of us will be heading over to the Vatican Museums, and I'm excited about some of their rooms. Most of these museums do not allow photography, but they do have a few of the major pieces listed on their websites. Two of my favorite galleries are also in my favorite part of the city, a large green space full of fun, trees, scenery, a dog park, a zoo, and lots of people relaxing, the Villa Borghese.

The National Museum of Modern Art that Mia and I visited this afternoon is a well-orchestrated museum with pieces guaranteed to make you feel a little uncomfortable (don't worry, that's the point), others that will make you smile, and some that might make you say hmmmm. I was delighted with the collection, which boasts some name-worthy pieces (the Klimt, a Kandinsky, Pollock, an impressive collection of Duchamp, Degas, Monet, Van Gogh, Cezanne, etc.) as well as some without big names but provocative work. Mia and I were delighted to see a different type of art--the statuary and religious and pagan art that are in many of the museums are impressive, but this was a radical departure. I particularly enjoy some of the later and more experimental pieces, so this was a really great museum for me.

For some of the best of the statuary and earlier traditional artwork, one does well to make an appointment to see the collection (also in the Villa Borghese) at the Borghese Galleries. Some of our students favorites included the pieces by Caravaggio (they have several), the large Bernini statues Apollo & Daphne and the Rape of Persephone, and a number (I counted no fewer than six) of representations of the rape of Leda. Cheerful myths, all reminding us that we must submit to the gods. Funny how it's always the women who have to submit, isn't it? In any case, the collection is impressive, the museum is curated very well, and the parquet, marblework, and frescoes are not to be missed.

Waiting for the Bus

2008-06-17T12:36:00.004+02:00

Last week, I was suffering from a rather unpleasant head cold, and Mia and I ended up waiting almost an hour for a bus home. Usually, we catch one within fifteen minutes, so we were a bit puzzled why we ended up waiting so long. Were we in State College, we most likely would have been impatient, upset, and angry. Here, we had waited almost twenty minutes before we even noticed. Waiting at the busy Piazza Venezia, we had plenty to look at and to observe.

The bus and metro system in Rome is extensive and very easy to use. It is also highly affordable (we paid 30 euro for a monthly bus pass!). It requires a little flexibility, however. Some days, the bus comes for us in the morning at 8, other days there is not a bus until 8:15 or 8:30. The schedule is fairly set, and we can count on there being a bus during that time period. Nevertheless, in trying to capture when it arrives at our stop, I have clocked it everywhere from 7:55 to 8:35 (there are usually two during that period). The buses that run around a quarter after the hour (8:15 and 9:15) are the busiest and most crowded. What this captures is how one must be willing to be flexible in Rome. Schedules are suggestions, and we do best living here when we roll with those suggestions.

Protest Dog!

2008-06-17T12:24:00.003+02:00

This past Wednesday, George W. Bush visited Italy. Although he did not speak while in Rome (he met with Berlusconi in Naples and with the Pope at the Vatican City), a protest was held. It began at the Piazza della Repubblica and turned into a parade through town. We wended our way through the crowd, and I saw this lovely wire-haired dog in the bunch. As you can see, others were also pleased to meet him. I was particularly amused that the dog had a muzzle attached to his collar, but he was unmuzzled at the protest, much as the people were. Lots of people stopped to pet this dog, as I was trying to get a good shot of him. You can see one of them pictured here. Petting people's dogs is not common around here, so this was a bit out of the usual behavior. Perhaps people feel a bit more free when they are protesting politically.

Naming and Gender

2008-06-17T11:23:00.004+02:00

I posted before about naming of children here in Italy. I encountered a blog post this morning about a court case that has gone to appeal about another naming issue. In this case, a couple is seeking to name their child, a girl, Andrea, which is usually a male name in Italy. Naming a child to be gender-appropriate is usually required, but this one has gone to appeal since Andrea is so widely a female name outside of Italy.

This raises all sorts of questions. What does it mean to name a child in gender-appropriate ways? Is this a cultural issue? Who decides what is "appropriate"? How would we deal with a world where all of the chromosomal combinations were recognized as genders? In an androgynous world? What if you opt for a name that is very rare and without a clear gender? In what ways do we owe it to children to protect their ability to get along with others well, socially, and in what ways do we feminists owe it to a changing future to challenge rigid gender norms? These are not idle questions, and they affect not only our understanding of naming, but of social responsibility, politics, and cultural adaptation.

Cultural Norms Wiki

2008-06-12T08:53:00.003+02:00

One of the blogs I read about Italy posted an interesting link this morning.

The website linked is called Culture Crossing, and it's a community-built, wiki-style site where people can post about norms and cultural actions in countries all over the world. Some of the norms covered are greetings, taboos, personal space, and business attire. The entry on Italy has a good start; maybe we can add to it after our time here?

Lupae

2008-06-11T13:30:00.010+02:00

Although she is not quite a dog, Lupa is a canus. One of my favorite parts of Roma is Lupa, the she-wolf. Supposedly the mother of Romulus and Remus (Artemis in Greek mythology), the she-wolf is the Madonna for Roma. Her image is to be found throughout the city, and even throughout the country.

For example, Lupa is also a mascot for one of the neighborhoods in Siena (I picked up a nice scarf with her on it).

Roma uses her image as an official emblem, and she turns up on trashcans (below, along the Via Appia Antica) and signs.

As you can see here, she dominates a room in the Capitoline museum, complete with her story.

Additionally, I recently saw a graffiti mural depicting her, in the same place where we saw the madrigals.

It keeps going. During my trip to Pompeii this past weekend, I learned that “lupa” was also a euphemism for prostitutes in ancient Pompeii. (I also learned that the “cave canem” mosaic I saw on the Via Appia Antica is a copy of the original mosaic in Pompeii, pictured below!)

Lupa is omnipresent, still nursing Roma with her image.

Like Fine Wine, Affection Gets Better with Age

2008-06-09T17:14:00.006+02:00

Couples are definitely open with affection in

Italy

. I have observed that the most egregious displays are mostly young couples, however. Are these public make-outs different from American teens, sneaking away from parents to kiss and experiment? Yes and no. The teenage desire may be the same, but it is more acceptable for more skin and more affection to show here. Shame and privacy are not needed. Kissing can happen in the middle of a park, as with this couple:

Or in the middle of the Via Appia Antica, as here:

Affection may not always be so public, and the beginnings of a real flirtation are more subtle. They are not obtuse, however, as they often are in the States. Mia observes that men who are interested here leave no doubt of their interest. Indeed, it is almost a palpable appreciation and interaction. This expression need not be (and is not, when done well) crude or demeaning. To be clear, the interaction has very little in common with U.S. American flirtation, and whistling, groping or touching, offering a ride, and "flirtation" in the U.S. American way is not at all what I mean.

Instead, let's consider the way that the gaze between couples in flirtation seems to work. Rather than a lean inward and prolonged, direct eye contact, the interaction might be an appreciative glance. Although this version of the gaze is no less objectifying than gazing at any beautiful object, the Italian flirtation gaze can express appreciation in the way one would appreciate paintings, statuary, or a nice window display (indeed, I have observed both Italian men and women arguing the merits of a display and the items in it more than once). Unlike the sweep of the eyes that undresses or focuses on hyper-sexualized body parts that often happens in the States, the Italian flirtation experience does not appear to wish away clothing or focus on a particular part of the body. The appreciation is one for the entire package, and the confidence, dress, and self-respect the other illustrates is an important part of that interaction.

We have seen this occur between a number of Italians, as well as between Italian men and those they appreciate. The interaction is subtle, but leaves no doubt of frank appreciation and interest. Couples gaze on one another, but do not check out attractive others on the street, in the way many U.S. American couples will. This appreciative gaze is a skill, and one that perhaps explains why those engaged in the wildly affectionate interactions in public tend to be younger.

With age comes the ability to indicate appreciation with a glance. Older couples walk hand in hand, arm in arm, and the gaze that passes between them is as affectionate and intimate as the gropings of the teens and new couples in the park. Perhaps like a fine wine affection is more appreciated as it ages and between those with a palate for the full experience.

A Variety of Ti Amo

2008-06-09T16:57:00.007+02:00

I have documented a wide variety of “Ti Amo” signs throughout the city. They occur everywhere from bus seats to monuments, in marker and in etchings. They blaze forth from walls and graffiti. They share the same characteristics over and over: they say the name of the person to whom the message is directed, they say “ti amo” or something very similar, and then they add a little oomph. This oomph might be a heart.

It might be a date. It might be an amplification to “adore” or to expressing how one cannot live without the other. I saw one with a paw print (indeed, calling someone a “little puppy” is common enough that it suggests it is a widely used term of affection). The best I have seen include multiple colors or dimensions. I’m including below some of the “Ti Amo” from Rome; although each is unique, seeing one pretty much tells the tale: people feel the need to declare love to one another, publicly. Where I grew up, this happened in the form of carvings in trees or caves. People tattoo these declarations into their own bodies. Perhaps it is not all that unique that these clutter the cityscape.

Amalfi Coast, Capri, and Pompeii

2008-06-09T16:35:00.003+02:00

This past weekend, Mia and I ventured south. We visited the Amalfi Coast, including Sorrento, Amalfi Town, Positano, the towns of Capri and Anacapri on Capri, and Pompeii (Dr. Benson's blog has a nice vignette about Pompeii this week, as well!). All of these places offer impressive panoramic views, scenery to rival the best scenes the world over, and, predictably, enough tourists clicking cameras to keep us running away from tour groups all weekend. Below, I am including slide shows of the highlights from each location.

The towns on the Amalfi coast offer a relaxing atmosphere to shop, rest, and take in the view. The coast is a rich grove for citrus fruit, and Sorrento is particularly known for its lemons. The two towns we visited on the south side of the Amalfi Coast, Amalfi Town and Positano, present views of bougainvillea, the bright blue Mediterranean, and houses and gardens clinging to terraced cliffs.

Capri Town and Anacapri are on the island of Capri, just off the end of the Amalfi Coast. They are filled to the brim with jewelers, high fashion shops, and tourists. The views are impressive. We skipped the famed Blue Grotto in favor of some of the less-beaten-path sites. Our favorite was the Villa S. Michele, home to Avel Munthe. The views from the garden alone were worth the price of admission, but his story was enough to encourage us to buy his book.

Pompeii is world-renowned for its preserved ruins. Covering 164 acres, we did not see all of the property. We also spent much time evading the tour groups; there were so many and many whose language we could not identify. The omnipresence of the tourist gaze made it difficult to capture the site, either on film or in mind, but we did get a feel for the place, thanks to Rick Steves’s suggested self-guided walking tour. The views of the surrounding countryside set us well to enjoy some of the most memorable vistas I have ever seen over the course of the weekend.

The Amalfi Coast is a must for those seeking to “see” Italy.

On Vacation: Dogs in Siena, Radda, Florence, Sorrento, and Capri

2008-06-09T15:07:00.007+02:00

We graduate students have squeezed in a few weekends away during our time here. I have stayed in

Italy

, but I have been to a number of towns. In each, I have encountered dogs. I finally pet an Italian dog this past weekend, a Miniature Schnauzer on Capri. In each of these places, the dogs behave much as the Roman dogs do. Some are a bit more laid back, with their tongues lolling, but I did not discern any new habits or behaviors. I have not captured every dog I have seen on film, but here are a handful of the dogs from my forays around Italy:

In Siena (central Tuscany):

In Radda (Chianti region of Tuscany):

In Sorrento (north side of the Amalfi Coast):

In Capri (an island off the end of the Amalfi Coast):

As you can see, haircuts are just as coiffed, breeds look pretty similar, and pups follow their owners indoors whether they live on the waterfront in Sorrento, in their houses on the hill in Radda, or with our neighbors in Testaccio.

The Tiber

2008-06-04T14:43:00.008+02:00

The Tiber river runs through a large portion of the city, dividing it in half. Each day, we walk by the river on our way to school. Some people run by the river. A number of people fish in it. In the evenings, a lot of people walk by it after dinner. The trees that run along its length provide welcome shade during the middle of the day, and the river itself has a personality. Some days, it is calm and placid. With much rain, it becomes tempestuous and full of rapids. I have included a variety of pictures of the Tiber, in which you can see some of its many moods.

Bus Karma Accrued? Check!

2008-06-04T14:31:00.003+02:00

Yesterday, I had an entertaining experience on the bus. Mia, Jessica, and I were on our way into the city, when an Italian family boarded the bus. Most of the family sat down, while the father and a son attempted to validate the tickets they held.

They first tried to insert the tickets into the machine that vends tickets. This, clearly, did not work. They turned the ticket this way and that, to no avail.

I was close enough to reach out to touch the man, so I indicated the machine he needed was across the way. When he tried to insert it the wrong way again, I simply took the ticket, turned it the right way, and inserted it for him. His wife thanked me, and they validated every ticket for the family.

All of this occurred between two stops. The entire family exited the bus at the stop just after the one where they boarded! They went to all of this trouble for one bus stop! The honest attempt to get the system right, to spend the time and money to get the tickets, and the short ride made us giggle. Even some of the Italians are puzzled by the public transit :)

I was pleased that I was able to help out. I also reflected that my help was welcomed here in a way it might not be in a lot of cities in the States. I felt no concern touching this man's arm to gain his attention -- touch is much more accepted and less personal in Italy. Were I to do this to someone in the States, it may not be as benignly received. I also was pleased to return a little bit of assistance -- the Romans were helpful to us when we were first learning this system. Maybe it's a little bit of bus karma.

Yield!

2008-06-04T14:24:00.004+02:00

The day before yesterday, the city was like a ghost town. We joked that it was a bit like being in a zombie film, the streets were so quiet. Bus #95 was re-routed to avoid running over the carabinieri parade that we caught a glimpse of as we passed Venezia and its traffic. Even with the re-routing, however, we arrived in ample time. The buses were moved for the parade, so they yielded in a sense, but we were on track.

Yesterday, traffic was abysmal. What is ordinarily no more than a 15 minute bus ride ended up taking over half an hour. As we slowly trundled toward school, sheltered from the rain and observing all of the innovative rain gear scooter users have, we were surprised at how badly the traffic was running. People are intimidated a lot by Roman traffic when they first arrive. After a few days (or weeks) of observing it, the method to the madness begins to emerge. It is fairly orderly and generally flows smoothly. This traffic jam was something new.

When we got closer to the city center, we figured out why: the senators were all on their way somewhere. The bus was passed repeatedly by dark towncars with tinted glass, with full police escorts (polizia finanzia, even!). All traffic yields to these cavalcades. As the buses, cars, and scooters move to the side (something I have only seen them do for ambulances, otherwise), after the VIP pass, the traffic must resort itself. As we were passed by multiple escorted cars (this ceased after we reached the Capitoline hill, which led to the presumption these were senators on their way somewhere), the traffic pile-up was considerable. Although I had seen the buses yield to police escorted towncars before, this was the first time it made an impression on the Roman traffic.

Counting to Three

2008-06-04T10:48:00.005+02:00

Each day for lunch, a number of the students in our program pick up a quick panino at a "snack bar" (that is precisely what its overhang states) down the street from the Collegio. Waiting my turn a few days past, I observed a fascinating inter-cultural communication moment. The woman in front of me had her three children with her, and was speaking with the children in Japanese. When she tried to order her panini, she picked a salami on a small roll, and then indicated that she wanted "tree" mozzarella and tomato panini. When the barman did not understand what she wanted and indicated his confusion by waving his hands a bit and shaking his head, and repeating "tree" in a questioning tone, she repeated, "tree" and showed him her hand, like so:

Image from Wikimedia.

The barman was still confused. "Tree?" he asked. She nodded, and repeated, "Tree," again flashing three fingers at him. This continued for almost an entire minute, the two of them repeatedly failing to understand one another. I was contemplating intervening to help when she pointed to the children, counting the numbers on her fingers until she reached three. This did it. Delighted, the barman, announced, "Ah! Treis!" and proceeded to turn his hand with its back toward her and showed her this gesture:

This second image is a stock photo that I edited it fairly significantly prior to using. Originals can be found at istock.

The entire interaction took about two minutes, but the very small difference (which fingers we use to count) created a significant communication barrier. I, too, would have indicated three with fingers and no thumb--and now I, too, have a better sense how to communicate numbers with my hands in Italy.

A Jaunt Outside the City: Ostia Antica

2008-06-04T09:18:00.002+02:00

To get to Ostia Antica from Roma Termini, you would first start out leaving the Termini station, which is right at the Piazza dei Cinquecento. Walking out of the station you go to the left. Walking straight on the road, to the right of you and forward, you will see a blue sign that has the letter “M” on it. Walk down the stairs, and make sure that you follow the blue sign that reads “Metro Linea B”. When you get down the stairs, there will be a little room, and a machine named “Biglietteria”.

To buy your ticket for the metro, go up to the machine, and hit the touch screen on the British flag. There will be four types of tickets that you could choose from, and pick the first option. It will cost 1 euro for a one-way/75 minute ticket. I suggest you purchase 2 tickets, so that you have a return ticket for your trip back to Rome. Go through the turnstiles. Make sure you get through the turnstile for “Metro Linea B” going to “Laurentina”. Get onto the metro, and remain on until it stops at "Laurentina".

You will get off at the 8^th stop, named “EUR-Magliana”. When you get off the metro, follow signs directing you to the “Lido” train. To get there, you will have to go underground and to the left. Go upstairs at the entrance to the “Lido a Cristoforo Columbo” train. Get onto the train and take it to “Ostia Antica”. It will take about 30 minutes to get to this stop, and it will be the 5^th stop.

Get off the train, and leaving the train station cross the street using the “Blue Sky-Bridge”. Walk down Via della Stazione di Ostia Antica. Follow this road down to the parking lot located on your left.

Ostia Antica is open Tuesday through Sunday, May through December, excluding religious holidays. It opens at 8:30am until 1 hour before sunset. The link provided would direct you to a page designed to help you find out more about what to expect when arriving at Ostia Antica.

You will approach a ticket office, and tickets can be purchased for 4 euro per person. After your ticket is purchased, you will be able to explore the ancient ruins and be able to experience Rome’s largest port town that is now a preserved city, much like Pompeii. To get the map of Ostia Antica, you can pay 2 euro at the ticket office to get a detailed guide of what to expect upon your trip. If you refer to the guidebook Eyewitness Travel ROME you will be able to look through all of the history of places throughout Rome.

If you have time, the closest beach to is along the same train line as you would take back to Rome, and should be easy to find how to get to. Lido di Ostia is a suggested beach to travel to. If you refer to Rick Steves’ ITALY 2008 you will be able to get additional travel hints or advice on how and where to travel throughout Italy.

Created By: Kelley Costello, Nicole Vella, Ilana Segal, Hillary Jones, and Alyssa O’Donnell

Cane Feroce and Dogs along the Via Appia Antica

2008-06-02T10:55:00.012+02:00

Along the Via Appia Antica lie a number of sites open to tourists, including mausoleums and meadows. A number of people’s estates (homes would be to underestimate the grandeur of these homes and their grounds) also line this ancient thoroughfare. Almost all of the homes sport warnings about their dogs. Some indicate a dog is in residence, some warn of the dog’s ferocity, and some simply present pictures of mean dogs. I even found one as a mosaic, with a Latin warning about the dog. A variety of dogs appear on the signs, but some clearly do not match the dog actually within the fence. One sign sports a Doberman Pinscher, but the dog who was barking suggests the dog is very small. It might very well be ferocious, but no Doberman lives at that house. Some of the signs are indicated below:

Dogs clearly do live along this route. Many are visitors, as well. I enjoyed the number of dogs people had out on walks with them along the Appia Antica, and we encountered several lazy dogs sleeping in the shade. Here are two of the sleepy dogs:

Being Polite

2008-06-01T18:08:00.002+02:00

People in Rome are some of the nicest city people I have ever encountered. I love the West Coast, but even there people rely on spatial norms and eye contact to get folks to move out of the way. People in New York and Chicago don't even pretend and just shove by. Although the people in Philly are friendly if you talk with them, they are not likely to say excuse me if they bump you. I have noticed that people here use a lot more apology with one another. There is much more scusi, scusa, and less shoving than people do in the States. Although they get close to one another and have a smaller personal space, they are aware if they might have hurt someone. It is normal to yield to seniors on the bus, and if someone does not, another person will ask people to get up. Taking care of one another is important and community is extant, even in the heart of the city.

Even the dogs behave and greet each other politely. Here are a few dogs (Sienese dogs, but I have seen this happen in Rome, also) meeting each other, politely. Because they are so polite, it stuck out when I saw that dachshund being impolite!

I attribute some of this to a heightened awareness fo being part of a community. I came across this article (http://reallyrome.com/blog/2007/12/19/dont-name-your-kid-friday-in-italy/) when reading some travel blogs about Italy. In December 2007, some parents were denied the right to name their child what they wanted (Friday). Instead, they registered the child’s name as Gregory. As that is my husband’s name, I think they made a great decision the second time around!

The government claimed the child would be ridiculed and would fail to develop appropriate interpersonal skills as a result. Communal harmony rates above individual liberty, in this case. Even amongst my American friends, do any of you think this is wrong? I am in favor of a little regulation in the interest of long-term harmony, I think. Where do we draw that line?

Madrigals of Love

2008-06-01T17:14:00.005+02:00

Wandering along the Via Due Marcello about a week ago, Mia, Jessica, and I discovered a tunnel. Within the tunnel were at least three graffiti artists, industriously at work. THe smell of spray paint tickled our noses as we peered around the corner. These artists were not simply tagging. They had plastic laid on the floor, ladders in place, and colors and colors of paint set out. These were spray paint artists preparing an installation. I noted the location, and we agreed we should return in a few days to see the completed work.

Earlier this week, we wandered that way again. When I discovered we were in the general vicinity, I suggested we check out the graffiti tunnel. The work is complete, and it is lovely.

One of the murals fits my themes, love in Rome. Although this is not a “Ti Amo,” it presents the Madrigals of Love (Madrigale di Amore), in intricate fantasy art. The Madrigals could refer to Monteverdi's Madrigals of Love and War, to Rodrigo's madrigals (several of which are termed "madrigals of love"), or simply to madrigals more broadly. Below are three photos of the mural.

It is large enough that a single photograph could not capture it. The title is in the upper-left-hand corner of the mural. The two feature figures for this madrigal are in the center, the woman about to eat an apple (Biblical references, anyone?) and peeping behind her.

The second figure is androgynous in facial features, with long hair sporting a red flower. This figure appears to be male, given the codpiece, boots, and trousers. His androgyny suggests he might be a castrato. He swoons and looks longingly toward the female’s figure. Some of the most key themes of madrigals (both Baroque and earlier) appear here--love and longing.

War and death are also themes that help to define the genre, which is partially illustrated in the third image. This couple is followed by a skeletal jester, playing on a violin held before him like a fiddle and with a bow shaped more like an archery bow than a violin bow.

The background has five lines, with some shapes vaguely akin to the bass clef symbol. This is clearly a scene set on a sheet of music.

It is poetic. Love is the pain of longing for the other, the temptation not realized, and the dark accompaniment of the possibility of its death. Much like the sweeping sighs of a madrigal, the mural captures the pain and longing of love.

Anti-Fascism Memorial

2008-06-01T15:39:00.007+02:00

In our neighborhood, Testaccio, just in front of the metro station (Piramide) is a small park on a traffic island. Along the side of this park is a powerful memorial to those who died in the anti-fascism movement in World War II. The figures in the front have bulleyes on them, and their hands are chained together. Set about two feet in front of the backdrop, the cutout portion corresponding to each figure is filled in with a highly-reflective silver metal that mirrors observers in it. We are positioned to see ourselves in these roles, quite literally.

Below, the memorial, the hands, and a view of the backdrop.

I have also included the plaque explaining the memorial. The rough translation of the plaque reads, as follows:

In Italian:

A tutte le vittime della barbarie fascista dall’inizio del ventennio ad oggi. Da quelle delle camice nere a quelle delle camice nere sotto il doppio petto dalle persecuzioni razziali e politiche degli anni di Mussolini e Hitler alle bombe sui tieni e nelle piazze della strategia della tensione dalle homicidi dei militanti antifascisti compiuti negli anni 70 da squadristi in e senza fino agli assalti ai centi sociali ai campi nomadi e ai linciaggi degli immigrati a tutte le donne e gli hommi liberi trasformati in sagome da tiro al bersaglio. A tutti quelli che al fascismo si sono opposti e sopratutto a quelli che al fascismo palese o mascilerato sempre SI OPPORRANNO. 25 Aprile 1945-1995.

In English, (roughly translated via Google’s translation tools):

All victims of fascist barbarity of twenty years from today. From those of black shirts to those of black shirts under the double chest persecution and racial policies of the years of Mussolini and Hitler bombs on hold and squares of the strategy of tension by militant anti-fascist homicidi made over 70 years from squadristi in and without until the assaults to centi social fields nomads and lynchings of immigrants to all women and men free transformed into shapes from target shooting. To all those that have opposed fascism and especially to those that fascism overt or mascilerato always SI OPPORRANNO. April 25, 1945-1995.

It's powerful. In a city full of powerful monuments and memorials, it can be easy to overlook (as Pierre Nora warns us) these places of memory. This one deserves a moment of contemplation.

Doing Laundry in Rome

2008-06-01T15:00:00.007+02:00

The first time we did laundry here, it was a production to figure out the machine. Faced with these dials, what would you do?

Below, the water heater and its various buttons:

The third photo indicates our water heater. I finally figured out that if I pushed the button and held it in, a green light turned on and stayed on. That turned on the hot water.

Next, one puts the clothing and soap into the washing machine. I have a front-laoding machine at home, so I guessed that the slots might be the same. If not, we may have been putting soap into the bleach slot. There are no labels in the little drawer. Here's the machine, in its little nook in the bathroom:

Next, one must select a cycle. There are a number of cycles. Not knowing the machine, I opted for the cycle indicating the least washing time, Delicado (40). Then, I was faced with buttons to begin the washer. One appeared to be spin cycle (centrifugo). The one that seemed most likely “par lavaggio” did nothing. I tried each button, to no avail. We looked for a book, but the apartment does not have one. It turns out, after some experimentation, that beginning the wash requires holding down (not just pressing) the “Avvio Pausa” button.

Once the wash completes (almost three hours for a full load, two for a delicates load), the wash must be hung out to dry. Each house has its own lines. Some of them are out a single window, as one of our neighbors and the nuns across the way have. Others are giant lines running the entire length of a building. The nuns across the street in the other direction have one on the rooftop, but most are out a window. Our lines are short and reaching the furthermost one requires leaning almost in half from the waist. I am very, very pleased I thought to bring along clothespins. It is 88 steps to our apartment, and going down and up 88 and rewashing a garment is an experience I could do without. Here is a picture of our line, filled with a load of wash:

We are counting ourselves lucky that we do not have to carry our laundry to other apartments, as we hear others are doing. The line system works very nicely for us.

Although many of my colleagues are missing dryers, I am pleased to have my clothing fitting comfortably. It smells fresh after being outdoors, as well. I grew up with clothing line-dryed, so in some ways it feels like coming home. In others, I miss my dry cleaner and dryer—cotton takes forever to air-dry. I would like to integrate some line-drying back into my laundry life, however. It may be a bit more difficult there, as laundry outdoors is expected here, but it will also help me to decrease energy consumption, a goal Greg (my spouse) and I share.

The Bus, Visually

2008-06-01T14:43:00.006+02:00

Most of the buses in Rome are fairly similar, apart from the electric buses that run in the Old City. Although the pictures below are not from my typical place (bus #95), it is very similar to those that do run on route #95 (these pictures are from the #118, which runs from Ostiense out to the Via Appia Antica).

Each bus has stop buttons at each seat, a single seat that faces backward right in front of the back door, single seats along one side of the bus and double seats along the back portion of the other, bars and handles at the top of the aisle for folks to hang on to, three sets of doors (front, middle, back), exit signs at the middle door, and validation machines (bright yellow) for the tickets.

You can see, in the pictures below, the validation machine, the seat that faces backward, the stop button, and a general view of the bus. The buses are almost all red and grey inside, as this one is.

Cremolatta di Frutta

2008-06-01T14:03:00.004+02:00

Although gelato is a wonderful, wonderful food item, some other options for dessert do turn up in

Italy

. We have not yet tried grattachecca, what is truly Italian ice, but we have one of the most renowned places for it in our very own Testaccio, so it is on the agenda (and when we get to it, I will post the details).

After a long day walking the Via Appia Antica, Mia and I were up for some refreshment. We tried another famed dessert food for summer, cremolatta di frutta, at the Café du Parc, near Piramide, which is rumored to be one of the best in the city. Mia had fragola (strawberry) and I tried two: papaya and mora (blackberry). They place panna (whipped cream) on top. The cremolatta is fruity, a little granular, and sweet. Mia’s tasted like strawberry shortcake! I liked the blackberry, but the papaya was a little too fibrous. The flavor was fantastic, however, and we will most definitely return to try some of the others, including watermelon, pineapple, and mango. The cremolatta also came with little pirouline cookies, a favorite of mine. Here are a couple of pictures:

Don’t Bring ANYTHING on the Escalators

2008-06-01T13:50:00.002+02:00

In the terminal by Vatican City, there are long, underground corridors. There is also a nice little café on floor five where one can obtain a cornetto and a caffe for a euro. In the interminable corridors, which remind me a lot of Waterloo Station in London, they have signs indicating what one should not take onto the moving walkways. At right, here is the sign. As you can see, it might be more straightforward to list what *can* be taken onto the walkways!

Marble Flooring

2008-05-27T17:37:00.030+02:00

I have a weakness for Victorian literature. I like the flowery prose, the formality and intricacy of relationships and conversations, and the structure to the texts. There’s an elegance and flow to it that I find lacking in much contemporary writing. I can get lost in Hardy on the moors or Hugo at Notre Dame.

I am also fairly detail-oriented as a person, so I am inclined to notice the minutiae in texts and places. The details matter for me.

In visiting churches around Rome, I have often been drawn into the intricate patterns and impressive displays of marble. After walking on cobblestone streets, the marble is also a welcome, smooth relief for my ankles and feet. I find myself understanding why the Americans in the nineteenth-century were mad for imported Italian marble. It is exquisite, varied, and worked my master craftsmen (and, yes, it would have been men then).

Here are a few examples of some of the marble. At St. Peter's Basilica:

At San Clemente's entrance, they have this sinuous design down the aisle:

Some of the detail, up close, includes gilted marble. They also had a lot of pastel colored marbles, as shown below at right. Do forgive the blurriness--the light was very low and flash photography was much too reflective to capture the colors well.

At S. Giovanni in Laterano, the floors look as though they are quilted, even down to the intricate drains (the first picture below). You can see a variety of the patterns, including some of the tricks, below.

Being Silly

2008-05-26T17:53:00.008+02:00

My mother pointed out there are very few pictures of me on my blog so far. Most of the pictures of me capture me and Jessica engaging in very silly behavior. A couple of examples:

Here, Jess and I stumbled across a tiny street (as indicated by the name, Vicolo) in Trastevere. It was pouring rain, we were on our way to a lecture about Roman triumph parades and arches, but we stopped to illustrate just how small this street really is.

Apparently, doing silly poses in the streets is becoming something of a habit for us. Below, a stencil in a side street in Firenze (Florence) where someone has stenciled the Monty Python walk. Mark was kind enough to snap the pictures, and Jess and I happily assumed silly poses.

Ultimately, we end up cracking up Mia a lot. Here she is, laughing so hard that she was no longer making a sound :)

Siena: My New Favorite Place in Italy

2008-05-26T16:32:00.004+02:00

My new favorite place in Italy is Siena. I fell in love with this city. I want to go there every year. I want to see the race for the Palio. It is also in one of the prettiest parts of Tuscany, the hilly Chianti region. Here’s a slideshow of some of my pictures from Siena:

Do you see why I love it so? I also had kiwi gelato, adopted some scarves, visited a winery, and had a scrumptious meal for two-and-a-half hours with a lovely, gracious host. If you go to Tuscany, a visit to Siena is a must.

Tourism Pet Peeve

2008-05-26T13:51:00.006+02:00

Here’s a tourism pet peeve. Tourists in tour groups don’t look at anything. They talk to each other, they walk through major sights, and they line up and take pictures like mad. Here’s a short video at St. Peter’s Basilica of the tourists and their flashbulbs (it's sideways--watch the vertical line in the middle):

No one takes pictures of the floor, the ceiling, the view, or the detail. They don’t take notes, sketch, or try to take it in. They don’t notice other tourists. They all go home with the same pictures of the same places. Then they immediately turn around and pose, someone clicks their picture in front of the sight, and they trudge to the next place. I have seen people walk through art museums with some of the most awe-inspiring and beautifully rendered pieces in the world without looking at any of the art. Unless a tour guide says “look at that,” they cruise right by it. If you pay so much to come see the sights, why not actually see them?!

On the Bus: Who Takes It?

2008-05-26T13:50:00.003+02:00

Who takes the bus? We do, of course, but I have noticed there are a number of people who do not appear to take our bus.

1) Not those with disabilities. The city has a tram it runs that is just for these folks, with wheelchair lifts and higher ceilings. They also pick up people with developmental disabilities.

2) Not the high fashion or business folk. These people often are on the road by the bus, on their scooters or in their cars.

3) Not the Senators. One morning I saw a police escort and a black towncar, dark windows, have traffic part like water before them as they drove up toward the Capitol.

4) Not people buying tickets. Few people punch tickets when they get onto our bus. Either they have passes or they do not appear to pay. My guess is that they buy weekly or monthly passes, as they are more convenient and a better price if you ride frequently.

The folk on our bus who do appear to be headed into work are not in high fashion. They may have suits on, but they are clearly working and middle-class folks. They do not get off in the middle of the city, as we do. Where do they go? It would be easier to take the metro if they are going far (although it is dirtier and more crowded than the buses, so it could be about comfort). Why the bus? Where do they work? The shopkeepers and clerks in the shops around the city are often dressed very smartly. These middle-class folks look nice, but not chic. Where do they work? I want to spend a morning riding the bus all the way through a route, just to see.

Being in Love in Firenze (Florence)

2008-05-26T11:05:00.010+02:00

We only visited Florence for eight hours, but I understand why people go there for their honeymoons. Everybody makes out in Florence. Everybody. You can’t turn around without finding a couple kissing. They are often kissing loudly (lots of lip smacking) or intensely (a lot of tongues). Indeed, when we were touring the Bordini gardens, Mia and I came across a park full of people relaxing in the shade. This couple was fully horizontal, in an intense (at least 10 minutes while we rested in the shade) make-out session, oblivious to the world.

It’s a pretty city with a ton of jewelry on the Ponte Vecchio, beautiful views and walks for those who want to amble, and many, many art collections for those who want to be inspired. Waffles coated in nutella (yes, they are as good as they sound) are common food at the gelateria, and we had some lovely gelato at a place called Grom. The Renaissance feels alive here, and the kissing may be related—it’s a place to begin lives and be re-born into a new family.

Here is one of the more fun “ti amo” bits I’ve seen—people write their names and the date on a lock and hang it along the river by the Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi.

We also saw something very sweet. In the peony garden at the top of the gardens, with the flowers in full bloom and the Tuscan countryside laid at our feet, we overheard a British man on the phone, clearly telling someone that the glowing woman before him had said ‘yes.” It is a romantic place, and the romance of the place seeps into the couples there, I think. Although it seemed inopportune to ask them for a picture, here are some of the peonies, along with me and Mia in the garden there:

Sounds of Italy

2008-05-26T10:49:00.011+02:00

People whistle a lot in Italy. We first noticed it when we moved from our B&B (near the Vatican) to our neighborhood (Testaccio). Mia and I spent about 20 minutes in a cab with a driver hooked on soft rock. He whistled along. As Mia put it, “He was a good whistler!” Whistling always reminds me of Andy Griffith. Ever since that observation, though, I have noticed that characters in the films we watch in class, men on the street, and people in the park walk along whistling merrily. Little children often are singing as they walk. Whistling is alive and well.

When we visited Tuscany this past weekend, we stopped in Florence for a few hours on our way home. As we walked by the line for the Galleria dell’Accademia, a group, waiting in line, burst into song. Not only were they singing, but they were singing gospel, and singing it well. Here’s a small sample:

While we were staying up by the Vatican, we began to notice the prevalence of the bells. Bells ring in the morning and in the evening. Sometimes they just chime the hour. On Sundays, however, the bells at the Vatican ring almost non-stop. They ring the hour, quarter-hour, half-hour, three-quarter-hour, and each time they ring for at least five minutes. Even in the middle of the night. Church bells are another prominent sound in Rome. When we visited the Vatican, I recorded a bit of the bells ringing, as you can hear here:

Finally, when we returned from Florence, we took a bus back to our neighborhood, as the Metro was inexplicably closed. When we reached our neighborhood, we had a hunch why they migh have closed the subway trains. When Roma wins, the city goes mad. We have the Roma club in our neighborhood, so the streets were lined with people, all dressed in red and gold. Even the dogs had Roma shirts on. The park had a giant screen set up, where, presumably, the people in the streets had seen the game. They were cheering, yelling, chatting, and the younger ones thronged the streets. Our bus had to stop because so many were there, and they pounded on the windows and cheered. Cars drove around with cheering fans waving giant flags and honking their horns insistently until 2 am. Although I heard better samples, this is an example of the sounds of the street, from our apartment last night. Forza Roma!

The Bus

2008-05-22T13:06:00.004+02:00

My place, for the blog, is going to be the bus that runs from Testaccio into the city (#95). We take this bus at least once a day, usually twice, and we have seen it at a variety of times. Buses in the city are really useful; although it is not huge, Rome can be easier to get around if one is familiar with the (extensive and well-designed) public transit systems. I will have much more to say about this topic in the future, but, for now, here are Jess, trying to figure out where our bus is and where it is going, and Mark, chilling on the bus:

Badly Behaved Dogs

2008-05-20T15:40:00.023+02:00

After having the opportunity to observe dogs for a little over a week, I was fairly convinced that Roman canines were rather calm and collected. Mia even tells me she saw one chilling on a scooter (in motion) with its owner. Walking through a market in our neighborhood park last night, however, I discovered that not every dog is well-behaved. Below, you can see a beefy little black-and-tan Dachshund greeting a little Border Collie type dog, then deciding he was not a fan and barking at him.

You can also see some of the misbehavior of this Airedale pup. The young teen trying to walk her ended up having to walk out of the park and back in to get the dog to go where she wanted. Pulling at the lead just led to stubborn pulling back--getting an Airedale to go where you want can be a trick even for skilled handlers, and this puppy was clearly not trained and the girl not skilled. As a result, the dog was pulling at the lead, people were clearly watching, and it was abundantly clear that it was unacceptable for her to have her dog behaving in this way, even though it is patently a puppy. Expectations are high for the owner and for the dog. Dogs socialize as much as people here--and not being able to greet one another civilly is just as faux pas for dogs as for people.

Most of the dogs are very, very well behaved, so this Airedale and Dachshund stood out. Here's a video of a different dog (Shar-Pei family, clearly), walking right next to us and not even deviating from his path. Indeed, he was disinterested in all of the other dogs in the area, as well.

//video in process--technical issues are going on//

This is much more normal behavior. And, as a bonus, a few other photos from the park last night, including mostly small dogs, but one who was off lead and really, really excited about her ball.

Dinner Out

2008-05-20T12:40:00.006+02:00

Above, the sign for one of the best places we have been to eat (and we have now been there twice because we like it so much): Pizzeria Remo, located in our neighborhood in Testaccio.

After our first foray, we learned some of the ins-and-outs, including how to order, and what was available. The table next to us ordered fried antipasti and had fruit for dessert--strawberries and, as you can see below, pineapple. At left, the artistic presentation before we devoured it. When I ordered "un ananas," Jess pointed out it was possible I had ordered A WHOLE pineapple, not just a quartered one! We were relieved to get the cut and quartered one :) At right, after it's been devoured. It's even artistic after it's been eaten!

Children at the Forum

2008-05-19T16:37:00.007+02:00

The Roman Forum seems such a solemn site. As we looked in and snapped photos, however, I watched two school groups go through and this little girl. As she walked through the Forum with her mother, she plucked a poppy and danced all through the space. For her, it was a dance space, a place for expressing joy. She was a delight.

Once she made it all the way through, she sits to look at the Arches, with her parents also gazing upward (at left). This is how most people behave in this space, but I like that she got to dance, first. Here's what she is looking at, at right.

A Study in Juxtapositions: Kitsch and High Fashion: Chalk Artists, Adopt-a-Dog in Plastic, and Fendi

2008-05-18T16:32:00.006+02:00

As we wandered around the Quirinale neighborhood in Rome, we happened across a sidewalk artist in front of Fendi. In addition to providing beautiful copies of masterpieces in chalk, he had some pithy comments for American tourists.

Here he is, at left, chalking away.

And, his pithy commentary, here:

The highlight of my day there, actually, was the adopt-a-dog vending machine. For a Euro, I received a little plastic egg with a French Bulldog figurine. Here’s the machine:

I was happy, I tipped the chalk artist for his witty repartee, and we went on our way—to the nearest gelateria, where I sampled amarena (it’s a small cherry that is common here in the summer). Yum. All in all, a happy accident.

FIRE!

2008-05-18T16:26:00.002+02:00

As we wandered up toward the Trevi Fountain with the big group this week, I noticed how the city handles its fire hydrants.

Rather than being curbside, they are in the sides of buildings, a series of hoses and valves.

There’s a photo of one, at left.

I particularly enjoy that it has a picture of a hydrant on its sign, even though there isn’t a physical hydrant in place.

Polizia, Nationalism, and the Piazza del Popolo

2008-05-18T16:04:00.008+02:00

Upon completing our trek by the Spanish Steps and up to the Pincio, we happened upon the celebration of the 156th anniversary of the polizia. In the Palazza del Popolo (literally a piazza for the people and populism), they were having a celebration, complete with a climbing wall, a police boat and helicopter, a mounted guard, and the President! There were a series of speeches, lots of folks in formation, and a band.

The band marched directly below us, and three or four of us took video of them marching. Those holding silver sticks have swords. Although I’ve learned I need to avoid talking during the videotaping, I got a fair capture of them marching. You will hear us conversing in the background, and, yes, that's me proclaiming how fantastic they are, twice. I was really impressed with the show.

It was a stupendous show of nationalism—with lots of flags, clapping from the crowd, and all of the polizia everywhere in full dress. Here’s the piazza a little closer up, at left.

This picture (below) is a better depiction of the piazza, with some of the polizia in there and you can see the boat, the climbing wall, and the helicopter. The dome in the background is St. Peter’s.

Some of the best things we have seen in Rome have been completely by chance—being in the right place by chance and seeing something remarkable.

My Second Theme: Public Displays of Affection

2008-05-18T15:43:00.008+02:00

I have decided to have my second theme focus on public displays of affection. The stereotypes, of course, are that the Italians are lovers. After witnessing a number of declarations of love around the city, I thought it worthwhile and feasible to investigate and unpack how love is expressed publicly. Because it is more public than in the United States, I think I will have some access to consider the ways that love is communicated here.

In particular, I’m going to focus on expressions of love. I have seen five brides in the last week. The “Ti Amo” graffiti is everywhere, and the ways that couples behave in public is different here. Space is different, touch is different, and the public norms about how to express romantic love are different, as well. I’m going to try to pursue three major sub-themes: weddings (‘tis the season, after all), “ti amo” and related types of graffiti, and everyday expressions.

As a preview, here are a few photos, including a “Ti Amo,” a wedding at the Campidoglio, and a couple walking by the Tiber at sunset, holding hands and strolling before dinner.

Here’s the bride leaving with the groom, as the videographer looks on:

A couple at dusk:

And, finally, a Ti Amo:

I Coloni di Catan (Settlers of Catan)

2008-05-15T16:46:00.006+02:00

It turns out the Italians are as aware of the fantastic options in German board games as we are.

For all of my rabid Settlers friends, Settlers in Rome includes regular Settlers and Seafarer's. They also had the Battaglia Roma. Check out the flames in the upper-right-hand corner of that box!

Play a few games for me, will you? Board games with lots of bits were certainly *not* at the top of the packing priority list, no matter how fantastic Settlers is :)

Dogs Not Allowed...Park Them, Instead!

2008-05-14T14:27:00.009+02:00

At left, dogs are not allowed in this restaurant (you can see Mark and Mia in the glass, if you look closely!) and at right, dog parking at the carbonieri station. The first was at a restaurant. Because taking dogs into restaurants, shops, and cafes is so common (indeed, I just saw a happy dachsund under a cafe table this morning), it's posted when they are not welcome. The sign at the right is outside of a carbonieri (Italian military police) office, with hooks for leads. Generally, very small dogs appear to be kept on harnesses and large dogs off lead. They are almost all well-behaved. Which raises the question, where to Italians take their dogs to learn obedience? I must investigate further :)

After having a few more days to observe breeds, I'm beginning to see some themes. There are a number of Yorkies, Poodles, and a few Beagles (even a lemon one!). Today, I saw two French Bulldogs, but most dogs are a mix, or a breed I do not yet recognize. Above, a very cute, and apparently pampered Yorkie. Dr. Benson tells me this dog is in this shop daily, and often has a different bow in her hair.

Phone Calls

2008-05-14T14:22:00.003+02:00

For those wanting to be called from home or wanting to call home, this is a nice engine that searches a lot of cards online.

Charles De Gaulle Airport

2008-05-14T10:45:00.009+02:00

Due to unforeseen weather in Philadelphia, a number of flights were cancelled or delayed. One of those flights was the one we were scheduled to take from Philly to New York, connecting to a direct flight to Rome. The weather in Philly didn’t seem all that bad to us—it was only rain—but it had grounded almost all flights that day.

As you can see, we made it onto a plane--this is the weather in Philly from the plane window, above.

After some passionate pleading from Jessica, the now-legendary Bob-of-Delta managed to get us re-booked onto Air France

flights to Paris and then to Rome. Our experiences at Charles de Gaulle airport, after nine hours of flight and some very spotty sleeping over the Atlantic were at the point when everything had become comical, due to lack of sleep and excitement that we managed to make it to Europe at all. Here’s Jess de-planing onto the tarmac, at left.

And Mark and Mia getting onto the bus at the airport (which then took us on a lovely tour of almost the entire airport. Somehow I think we might have appreciated that more were we not jet-lagged and loopy!), below:

De Gaulle is a fascinating airport, full of interesting lines, shapes, and a lot of windows. It’s interesting lines and shapes lead to a lot of confusion indoors—where lines include people in addition to nice aesthetics. Here’s a view of the outside of the airport:

We took in the sights indoors as well, ranging from women and men sporting high fashion (and rather a lot of fruity and flowery perfumes) to magazines to bizarre fliers. Posted throughout the airport were signs about one man in particular. Have you seen this man?

Customs was so laissez-faire that the bored agent didn’t even bother to stamp my passport—he just glanced at my visa and handed back my passport. We had some interesting experiences going through security again (including a baby being hand-wanded, me having a conversation in French about my (full) water bottle, and a lovely Gallic shrug at timetables and the harried Americans who kept cutting in line as they tried to make their flights), but we managed to make our connecting flight—by a mere five minutes. Here’s Mark and Mia re-planing, as we take off for Rome:

Roman Dogs

2008-05-12T14:24:00.023+02:00

As one of my themes this summer, I’ve decided to consider Roman dogs. I naturally notice people’s dogs, and I am interested in the breeds, norms, and behaviors of pet ownership. Because my two miniature schnauzers are at home in Pennsylvania, the dogs of Rome will help to assuage the loneliness, even if only in pictorial form.

The Area Giochi (di Villa Borghese) per Cani

By chance, wandering in the Villa Borghese, we found a dog (cani) park and a sanctuary for abandoned puppies (cuccini). Some of the dogs I encountered are featured below:

Literally, the dog park the "area of the park for dogs".

At left, the ever-present small terrier, along with a large dog and a darling little girl. Below, a fuzzy Airedale and her owner, chilling in the park and watching the smaller ones go by.

The Valley of the Puppies

Two of the puppies are these handsome shepherds (at left). The abandoned puppies of the city, the sign tells us, are brought here, where they receive rehabilitation. They even have an agility course! We were politely asked not to take any further photos, so this is the full story on the abandoned pups.

General Observations

Although the majority of dogs in Rome appear to be small terriers similar to Jack Russells, I have seen a wide variety within three days. In addition to a variety of mixes (including a lovely gentleman with whiskers and wire-hair), I have encountered a number of large breeds (Golden Retriever, Labrador, Airedale, Great Pyrenees, German Shepherd, and a Doberman) and small breeds (Border Collie, Shetland Sheepdog, English Bulldog, Maltese, a variety of Jack Russell terriers (or something very similar), and two Yorkshire Terriers—one held in a woman’s arms and the other asleep in a box in front of a gypsy woman.

The Romans have quite a few dogs, and it appears normal to have them at sidewalk cafes and inside the door of the more casual trattoria.

Some of the additional places I would like to begin to explore include pet shops (there is one a block away from our apartment) and other parks (to see if dogs are allowed more generally or only at the designated dog parks). I need to work on the language enough to ask people to take photos of their dogs and to meet and/or pet their dogs. I would also like to begin to get a handle on the laws about dogs in the city—how are they licensed? What are leash laws like? Are there ordinances about picking up after pets (which does not appear to be the case at least in some neighborhoods, where watching where you walk is the wiser course!).

Money Matters

2008-05-09T04:28:00.003+02:00

In considering the path of the Euro and the dollar over the past couple of months, I came across this excellent summary:

http://www.x-rates.com/d/EUR/USD/data120.html

The dollar is not doing well. If one were economically inclined, it might be interesting to keep an eye on this over time. I'll post on it periodically--we'll see how the dollar fares over the next 7 weeks.

In the other sense of economy, I wish my packing were illustrating more of it. The medicine cabinet in my suitcase says I'm being frugal (the dollar isn't worth much, remember?) but my back might complain by the end of the day on Monday.

Benvenuto!

2008-04-30T03:50:00.003+02:00

Benvenuto to my blog!

This web log will chronicle my thoughts, experiences, and general ruminations (complete with photographs!) during my time in Rome. Along with a handful of fellow Penn-Staters, I will be in Rome from 9 May until 29 June, 2008.

I look forward to sharing, and thank you for visiting!